Yes — in the United States, making jewelry from a real coin is legal. U.S. law prohibits defacing currency only when it's done with intent to defraud, and turning a coin into a ring isn't fraud, so it doesn't run afoul of that law.

It helps to know what fraud actually means here. You can absolutely turn a coin into a ring or a pendant — there's nothing fraudulent about that. But filing down a nickel to the size of a dime so it fools a vending machine would be fraud. So would altering a one-dollar bill to pass it off as a ten. The common thread is deception — trying to make something pass as money it isn't. Wearing a silver dollar as a ring while you fill your gas tank isn't fraud; trying to pay for that tank of gas with your ring would be.

The U.S. Treasury has issued statements confirming that using coins and currency for art and jewelry purposes isn't illegal. This isn't a gray-area workaround, either — coin jewelry has a long, visible history.

You'll find coins repurposed into rings, pendants, and cufflinks in jewelry stores across the country, and museums display historical coin jewelry as a recognized art form in its own right — the Smithsonian, among others, has exhibited pieces made this way. We're working within a well-established tradition, not inventing a loophole.

Not if it's made from genuine silver or gold — and these are actually two separate concerns worth untangling.

Green or black skin discoloration typically comes from copper-heavy base metals reacting with sweat and skin oils. That's common in cheap "pot metal" costume jewelry or coins with high copper content, but not in pieces made from sovereign silver or gold.

Skin irritation — redness, scaling, or a burning sensation — is a different issue, usually caused by nickel, which a lot of inexpensive jewelry contains as a hardening agent.

High gold and silver content coins are hypoallergenic, meaning they avoid both problems at once. That's exactly why we only work with sovereign silver and gold coins rather than alloys containing copper or nickel.

Two separate things matter here, and most explanations only cover one of them: the metal, and where the design sits on the coin.

On the metal side, coins made from cupronickel — commonly called "clad" coins, like post-1965 U.S. quarters and dimes — are a poor choice. That copper-nickel mix is exactly what causes the green, scaly skin reaction covered above, and it doesn't take or hold a polish the way silver and gold do.

The design-placement issue is less talked about but just as important. When a coin is forged into a ring, the visible design on the finished band comes from roughly the outer half to three-quarters of the coin's face — the area away from the center. Most coins place their main design dead center, so that detail gets removed or hidden during forging, leaving a ring face with little to show.

It's almost a happy accident that a handful of coins — including the ones we work with — happen to place their key imagery exactly where it survives forging beautifully: Lady Liberty's profile, the American bald eagle, the lettering of "UNITED STATES OF AMERICA," the date, and mottos like "E PLURIBUS UNUM" all sit in that outer band on coins like the Morgan Silver Dollar and the American Gold Eagle. These coins weren't designed for rings, but their layout happens to translate into finished jewelry in a way most coins simply can't.

It can trigger a metal detector, the same way any solid metal ring, watch, or belt buckle can — but that's true of virtually all fine jewelry, not something specific to coin rings. In practice, most people wear theirs through TSA checkpoints and everyday metal detectors without a second look, since modern walk-through detectors are calibrated to flag larger metal objects rather than a single ring.

If you're ever asked to remove jewelry at a security checkpoint, that's standard procedure, not a sign anything's wrong with the piece.

A coin ring starts as a single coin and is gradually reshaped into a ring through pressure and heat, not cut or cast from a mold.

The process begins by making a tiny hole in the center of the coin. From there, using pressure, heat, and specially made tools, the coin goes through a series of passes where that center hole is gradually expanded. Step by step, the flat coin takes on the shape of a ring.

Once the basic ring shape is achieved, it's reduced or expanded to the target size of the finished piece. At that point, the edges are filed, sanded, and polished smooth, and the ring receives either a patina finish or a high polish, depending on the look we're going for.

That's a simplified version of the process, but it gives you the general idea. In reality, there are a hundred ways it can go wrong along the way — the edge of the metal can rip or tear, the shape can come out wobbly or oblong instead of perfectly round, the metal can delaminate (where layers or flakes separate), fine details can bubble if the coin is overheated, or they can smear and lose their crispness if pressed against the steel tooling at the wrong moment.

Not every coin makes it through. It's a testament to the experience and skill built up over time that we lose less than 0.5% of coins in the process today — though that wasn't always the case, and getting there took real trial and error.

They're very durable for daily wear — more than most people expect from something that started as a coin.

Pure .9999 fine gold or silver, on its own, is quite soft — soft enough that fine engraved detail could wear away within a few years of daily wear. That's exactly why we generally don't use 100% pure metals.

Coins like the American Gold Eagle and Morgan Silver Dollar were minted with a small amount of copper added to the gold or silver — not enough to cause any skin reaction, but enough to give the coin real durability. As currency, it was built to survive constant jostling against other coins in pockets, registers, and cash drawers without quickly wearing smooth.

As a ring, your piece sees far less abuse than it was originally built to survive as circulating money, so that same durability serves you well for decades of normal wear. The one caveat we'd give for any metal ring, ours included: if you work with your hands — in the trades, with heavy tools, or doing other manual work — it's smart to take it off during those activities.

Not really, and we'd rather tell you that directly than let you assume otherwise.

If your primary goal is precious-metal investment, jewelry — ours or anyone else's — isn't the right vehicle. The labor, craftsmanship, and design that go into any piece of jewelry mean you're not paying a pure metal-content price, and that's true of every jeweler, not just us. If investing in precious metals is genuinely your goal, you're better served buying bullion directly and storing it securely.

That said, because our rings are made from real, substantial silver and gold rather than plated, base, or low-karat metal, your piece itself does carry real value — and over the longer arc of time, that value tends to rise. Silver and gold have both appreciated meaningfully since we started making these rings: silver is up over 300%, and gold up roughly 200% or more.

This is especially true for our gold pieces, since they're forged from high-karat (22k) sovereign coin gold rather than the heavily diluted 10-14k gold typical of mall jewelry — meaning they carry more actual gold content per piece than a comparable ring from a jewelry store. See Why High Karat Gold Wins for the full comparison.

Many customers who bought a piece in the last several years have watched the metal value in their ring increase substantially as a result — even people who bought as recently as last summer and fall have seen real appreciation. That's a genuine side benefit of working with real precious metal, even though it's not why we'd suggest you buy one.

Occasionally, but not for the reason most people assume.

Proof coins carry numismatic (collector) value, and that value disappears the moment a coin is forged into a ring — so whenever a non-proof version of a coin exists, we use that instead, since there's no reason to sacrifice a collectible coin's value for no benefit.

The exception is when a coin was only ever issued in silver as a proof. The 2000 Kennedy Half Dollar is a good example: the circulating version is clad cupronickel, with no real silver in it at all, but a 90% silver version exists only as a proof issue. In cases like that, the proof is the only way to get a genuine silver piece of that coin, so that's when we'll use one.

A few signs, and they're worth knowing if you're shopping anywhere, not just with us.

Genuine silver and gold have a distinct sound when tapped against wood or another hard surface — something you learn to recognize after handling enough real coins. Fakes are often steel or another ferrous metal with a plating layer, which means a simple magnet test can expose them immediately; real silver and gold aren't magnetic.

Detail quality is another giveaway. Cast (rather than struck) fakes need a mold that's extremely accurate to look right, and that's harder to pull off than people expect — look for details that seem slightly misplaced, soft, or not quite crisp. That said, soft detail can also just mean a genuine but heavily worn coin was used, which isn't a sign of a fake, just a lower-quality starting coin. We avoid that issue entirely by only using coins graded AU (About Uncirculated) or better.

Technically yes, but we don't currently offer it, and the reason is worth knowing if you're considering asking.

Most men don't want a stone set the traditional way — raised in a prong setting, "sitting proud" of the band — since that's more likely to catch on clothing or scratch someone (a kid being picked up, for example). This type of setting also has a more feminine look.

The alternative is a flush or "gypsy" setting, where the gem sits in a cup recessed directly into the metal — a legitimate, centuries-old setting technique, not a shortcut.

The limitation is size. If a gem is too large, its culet (the pointed bottom facet) pokes through the underside of the coin ring and digs into your finger — so gem height is capped by the coin's thickness, which on a Morgan Silver Dollar, for example, tops out around 3.5-4mm.

Most people asking about gemstones want something larger and more visible, usually close to a full carat or more, which simply isn't possible in a flush setting on a coin ring due to the culet depth issue. Given how few people are interested in the realistic, smaller stone sizes that actually work, we've chosen not to offer this as a standard option.

Not in a way we'd be proud to put our name on, which is why we don't offer it.

The core appeal of a coin ring is that the original coin's detail is preserved on both the inside and outside of the band — there's no blank space to engrave a name or date without first removing existing detail, which works against the entire point of the piece.

We have, upon request, fully removed the inside detail to create blank space for engraving. But genuine engraving on the inside of a finished ring requires either a dedicated engraving machine, or accepting a much lower-quality surface laser engrave — and demand has never been high enough to justify either investment.

Honestly, it's a personal call, not one with a clearly "better" answer — but there are real style factors that tend to point people one way or the other.

A simple starting point: look at what you already wear. If your watch, belt buckle, or other rings are silver-toned (stainless steel, white gold, platinum), a silver coin ring will match what you already wear. If you lean toward gold-toned pieces, the Gold Eagle will feel more like it belongs with everything else.

Skin tone plays a role too, the same way it does with any metal jewelry — gold tends to read warmer and richer against warmer skin tones, while silver often reads cleaner and more versatile against cooler tones. Neither rule is absolute, just a reasonable place to start if you're genuinely torn.

Beyond that, it's about the impression you want the piece to make. Gold carries more visual weight and a more traditional "statement piece" feel; silver reads as more understated and easier to wear with anything, day to day. And budget is a real factor too — gold's price point is a meaningful step up, so for some people that alone settles it.

None of this is the "smarter" choice over the other. It's about which one fits how you actually want to wear it.

Yes, noticeably — especially gold — and that's actually one of the most consistently positive things customers say about them.

A coin ring is heavier than most "traditional" thin-band rings, and you'll feel that difference the first time you put one on. Part of that comes down to shape and profile, but a bigger part comes down to what the metal actually is: a coin ring is forged from high-karat gold or high-silver-content coinage, not the heavily diluted, filler-laden alloys used in most mall and jewelry-store rings.

More real metal, less filler, means more actual weight in your hand — that's not a design choice, it's just what genuine, substantial metal weighs.

In our experience, that extra weight is noticeable for the first 3-5 minutes as you get used to it, and then it settles in. We've never had a single customer complain about the weight afterward. If anything, customers bring it up as a compliment — the weight reads as solid and substantial, not as a downside, and it's a quiet, physical reminder that the piece is made from the real thing.

There are a handful of hobbyist makers in this space, and quality varies enormously — some do genuinely skilled work, others don't. A few specific things to look for.

Start with the coin itself. It should be genuine silver or gold — not cupronickel or another base metal — and it should be a real, graded coin, not a recast or restamped piece passed off as the original. A highly circulated coin or a coin that's been recast loses the crispness and accuracy that made it worth using in the first place.

Next, look at the ring's actual profile. A well-made coin ring has straight, even walls — or a slight, intentional convex curve — at the exact target size. This is genuinely the hardest part of the craft to get right, and it's where a lot of rings on the market fall short: slanted walls, wobbly or oblong shapes, or an uneven profile are all signs of a maker without the experience to hit a precise size and shape at the same time.

Finish quality is another tell. Edges need to be filed, sanded, and polished smooth for comfort — including the reeded edge of the coin itself, which a lot of makers skip or rush. A genuine mirror polish is a multi-stage process, not a quick pass with a buffing wheel, and a good patina finish should create an even, rich tone without ever dulling the crispness of the original engraving.

One detail almost nobody checks for, but should: the inner reeded edge needs to be "taken down" so it doesn't leave a noticeable lip on the inside of the ring. Skip this step, and you get a ring that feels subtly wrong on the finger — and worse, that inner lip can trap soap residue that doesn't fully rinse away, which can irritate the skin over time.

Beyond the physical piece, a few other things separate a serious maker from a hobbyist: real communication and willingness to talk through what you actually want, clear documentation of the coin and the finished piece (a Certificate of Authenticity, a record like our Founder's Ledger), an honest production timeline (ours run 1-3 business days, so you're typically wearing your ring within about a week of ordering), a real warranty that stands behind the work over time (our Lifetime Stewardship covers free resizing and refinishing, transferable to anyone you gift or leave the ring to), and no nickel-and-diming on things like shipping.

None of this happens by accident, and it's a big part of why pricing across the handmade coin ring market varies as much as it does.

The Walking Liberty Half Dollar ring is our lowest-priced piece, starting at $425.

It's a genuine entry point if budget matters most, without giving up anything on authenticity or craftsmanship — same standards, same lifetime resizing, just a smaller, less expensive coin to start from.

Every piece starts as a genuine sovereign silver or gold coin — one originally issued by a government mint to function as real currency. We don't use replicas, reproductions, recycled jewelry metal, base metals, or novelty coins. Each coin is sourced through established numismatic dealers and checked for origin, metal content, and authenticity before any work begins.

We specifically choose coins that are professionally identified as Bright Uncirculated (BU), About Uncirculated (AU), or Mint State (MS) 63 or better by NGC or PCGS, the leading agencies known for grading coins.

Beyond the history, both metals forge well and are hypoallergenic — they won't irritate skin the way some other metals can, which matters for a piece meant to be worn daily.

No. Only coins with enough detail, weight, and structural integrity make the cut. Coins that don't meet that bar are set aside.

Yes — email us before you order with the year and coin you want, and we'll confirm availability, any added cost, and timeline. Full details here: Requesting a Specific Year or Coin.

Our standing collections — what we call our Chambers (Heritage Silver, Sovereign Gold, Legacy, and Union) — are always available. These are the coins we keep in reserve year-round: Morgan Silver Dollars, Walking Liberty Half Dollars, American Silver Eagles, and American Gold Eagles. If you order from a Chamber, you're not waiting on us to go find anything.

Current Allocations is different — it's a rotating selection that changes month to month, often featuring rarer coins, special commissions, or designs we don't carry as part of the standing lineup, including occasional foreign coins with different imagery. Once a piece in Current Allocations is gone, it's genuinely gone — not a sales tactic, just a real reflection of what we happened to source that month.

If you want predictable availability, shop the Chambers. If you want to see what's unusual or rotating in, check Current Allocations.

No. Every ring is forged from a single coin and sized at the end of the process, so you can sort out sizing before or after placing your order.

That said, knowing your size at the time of order ensures there is no delay in finishing and shipping your ring.

Three easy ways:

• Choose 'Request Ring Sizer' as your size option when ordering. We will mail you a sizer, you email us your size, and we then make and ship your ring.
• You can order a $10 sizing kit ahead of time, a great solution if you are planning to order in the future or gift a ring.
• Almost any local jeweler will size you for free.

Full detail: Sizing Protocol.

We offer free resizing and refinishing for life, so the fit stays right even years later.

Whether you gain or lose a little weight over time, or simply decide you want to wear the ring on a different finger that has a different size, our goal is to ensure you enjoy wearing it for life.

No, this is a common misconception.

The lip or 'reeded' edge of the coin means the inside of the ring is slightly more roomy compared to traditional wide band rings. This gives the fleshy part of your finger between the joints room to expand when you clench your hand.

People are constantly surprised at how comfortable our coin rings are to wear for this specific reason.

Big coins make big rings — it's simple geometry, not a limitation we can engineer around. The American Silver Eagle has the widest diameter of any coin we work with, and a Morgan Silver Dollar isn't far behind. When a coin that size is forged down to a small ring size, the proportions stop working: the band ends up too thick relative to its width, or there isn't enough metal left to form a comfortable, well-shaped ring at all.

If you're after a smaller size, the coin itself needs to be smaller to start. See the next question for which coins work best for that.

The Walking Liberty Half Dollar and the half-ounce American Gold Eagle are both noticeably smaller in diameter than a silver dollar-sized coin, so they forge into comfortable rings at sizes a Morgan or full Silver Eagle can't reach.

While it is definitely a unisex ring, the half-ounce Gold Eagle in particular gets requested often as a women's wedding band, and we offer it as part of wedding sets for exactly that reason.

It's also worth knowing that most U.S. coin designs lean masculine — eagles clutching arrows, olive branches, and similar imagery were simply the style of the era they were minted in. If you're looking for something with a softer or more feminine design, we occasionally offer rings made from foreign coins with different imagery — old Indian rupee coins or 1920s-30s Irish florins, for example — through our Current Allocations, since these aren't part of our standing collections.

There are two components here - forging time and shipping time.

Forging Time
Most standard pieces — made from coins we keep on hand — leave our hands in 1-3 business days. If you've requested a specific year or coin that we don't have in the safe, add 2-4 business days for sourcing on top of that.

Occasionally a specifically requested coin takes longer than expected to track down; if that happens, we'll reach out directly rather than leave you guessing.

Shipping Time
Once released to the carrier, your piece usually arrives in 1-3 days.

Generally, from order to sliding your new ring on, it takes about a week, but often happens quicker.

Shipping is included in your purchase price. Orders under $3,000 ship via USPS Priority Mail — tracked and insured, and usually arrive in 1-3 days. Orders over $3,000 ship Next Day via UPS or FedEx. You'll get a tracking confirmation by email once your piece leaves our hands.

Depends on the piece. Heritage Silver rings (Morgan Silver Dollar, Walking Liberty Half Dollar, Silver Eagle) can be returned within 60 days of delivery if unworn and in original condition.

Those are final sale once forging begins, since each one is sourced and shaped for a specific order and can't be undone. They're still covered by lifetime resizing, refinishing, and structural care — final sale means we can't take it back, not that we stop supporting it.

Pieces created from standard silver coins we keep in reserve can be cancelled any time before shipment. Gold, custom, and specific-year orders can only be cancelled before we begin sourcing the coin — which can start within a couple of hours of your order. Full details: Returns & Final Sale.

Yes, and at this price point it's worth doing. Many homeowners and renters insurance policies offer a jewelry rider or scheduled personal property endorsement that can cover a piece like this — contact your provider, give them the purchase price and a description, and ask specifically about a rider for fine jewelry rather than relying on standard policy limits, which are often capped too low to fully cover a piece like this. We're happy to provide a copy of your receipt or invoice if your insurer asks for documentation.

Yes — some customers commission work from a coin that's been carried, collected, or kept in the family for years. We evaluate every submitted coin for authenticity, condition, size, and whether it'll hold enough detail once forged. Coins that don't meet those standards are respectfully declined.

Review the Personal Coin Stewardship Guide, or email us a photo of your coin and any questions at terry@silverstatefoundry.com.

Yes — we create commissions recognizing leadership transitions, retirements, partnership milestones, long-term service, and similar occasions. These are typically built around a coin year tied to the milestone itself, and we coordinate sizing, sourcing, and delivery directly with you. More here: Institutional Commissions.

A soft cloth and mild soap with warm water is enough for routine cleaning. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners or ultrasonic jewelry cleaners, which can be too aggressive for the coin's engraved detail.

All silver naturally tarnishes over time — it's not a defect, just a property of the metal. Gold doesn't tarnish. Either way, periodic gentle polishing keeps the detail looking sharp, and we offer free refinishing for life if you'd rather have us do it.

Each piece we ship comes with a Sunshine brand polishing cloth specifically for this purpose. The cloth is specifically designed to help maintain your piece, and is the industry standard for polishing jewelry at home.

Harsh chemicals (chlorine, strong cleaning agents), excessive abrasion, and prolonged water exposure (showering/swimming) are all worth avoiding for any handcrafted metal piece, coin rings included.

Some of these cleaners and chemicals can damage the patina finish. If that happens, no worries, we can remove and reapply the patina finish for free under our Lifetime Stewardship service.

While the silver and gold in the coins we use was specifically designed to endure years of circulation, and will therefore stand up well to normal daily use, we recommend taking your ring off when working with your hands - using tools like in construction or gardening, for example. This would be the same for any jewelry, not just our pieces.